On the far south eastern coast of Western Australia, Esperance (the Bay of Isles) is an incredibly welcome sight to travellers who have just made the long trek across the Nullarbor. On the other hand, if your heading that way make sure you soak in your stay, as this is going to be your last glimpse of a modern seaside town for some time.

200 kilometres south of Norseman and 187 kilometres east of Ravensthorpe (see South West Corner), Esperance's wide, white beaches, spectacular coastline, and stunning setting overlooking the unusual 100 or so islands of the Recherche Archipelago, have led the town to become a popular holiday resort. Although most flock here to recharge their batteries on one of the area's glorious beaches, a tour around the bay's islands is a must. The islands are not only home to several colonies of New Zealand fur seals, Australian sea lions and penguins, but a host of other wildlife including sea eagles and the beautiful Cape Barren goose. Some tours include snorkelling and scuba diving, enabling visitors to appreciate the equally abundant wildlife below the waterline. Others even offer a stay at the wildlife sanctuary on Woody Island.

On dry land, Esperance's awesome coastline is best seen via the magnificent Great Ocean Drive. Drivers or fit cyclists (FrogandToad recommends a motorcycle) which follow the 39 kilometre loop road beginning at the southern end of town, will be treated to some of the most impressive scenery anywhere on Western Australia's south coast. Along the way the are many lookouts ideal for photo opportunities, as well as several secluded swimming beaches, and the strange looking Pink Lake.

Further out of town, a number a national parks encompass some more of the area's brilliant coastline. Sixty kilometres east of Esperance, the Cape Le Grand National Park is the most accessible and popular, not only for it's pristine swimming and fishing beaches (Lucky Bay, Hellfire Bay, and Thistle Cove), but for it's great walks and views from Frenchman's Peak. Another sixty kilometres further east of Cape Le Grand, the very remote Cape Arid National Park marks the beginning of the Great Australian Bight. Access is available via a gravel road only, but those that make the trip will be rewarded with some deserted beaches, good bush walking, and an abundant array of flora and fauna. Both parks offer convenient camping facilities and colourful wildflower displays in Spring.

The Nullarbor Plain

Crossing the Nullarbor Plain is undoubtedly one of Australia's great touring experiences. From the point where the well maintained and sealed Eyre Highway begins at Norseman, it's a 1208 kilometre journey before it reaches another real town of any size (see Ceduna in Outback, South Australia). The only signs of civilisation on the long stretches of perfectly straight road are a series of roadhouses, providing fuel, essential services, food, and generally several forms of accommodation. The largest gap is about 200 kilometres, so motorcyclists may need to carry extra fuel. Travellers should also be aware of wandering kangaroos and emus, especially at dawn or dusk, as well as the many time changes you will encounter along the way.

Halfway between Esperance and Coolgardie, Norseman is an old gold mining town on the cross roads of Western Australia's great inland highways. The town is a welcome sight for those coming from South Australia, and for those heading that way, the ideal place to prepare for your journey. There are a number of good places to stay, and several friendly pubs serving refreshing ales.

The first fuel stop is 191 kilometres east of Norseman, at Balladonia. The roadhouse offers both camping and hotel/motel styles of accommodation, as well as a good feed in the colourful cafe. Past Balladonia, the 182 kilometre trip to Caiguna includes one of the longest stretches of straight road anywhere in the world (146.6 km). At Caiguna, The John Eyre Motel provides all the accommodation and eating options.

65 kilometres east of Caiguna, Cocklebiddy is a tiny settlement is serviced by the Wedgetail Inn Hotel Motel. Home to Cocklebiddy Cave and the world record for the deepest cave dive ever, the township also provides 4WD access to the incredible 75 metre limestone cliffs which line the Great Australian Bight. At the Bight, the Eyre Bird Observatory provides board for bird watching enthusiasts in the old Eyre Telegraph Station.

Back on the Eyre Highway and 93 kilometres from Cocklebiddy, the Madura roadhouse represents the next pit stop. 116 kilometres past Madura, the roadhouse at Mundrabilla is also a comfortable place for a rest, offering both a caravan park, and a hotel/motel.

From Mundrabilla, it's just 79 kilometres to the South Australian border and 66 kilometres to the town of Eucla. Eucla is the largest settlement between Norseman and Ceduna, offering the widest range of services and facilities and even boasts a nine hole golf course! At the border there's a quarantine checkpoint, and travellers should make sure that they're not carrying fruit, vegetables, honey, plants or seeds.

Just across the state line the Eyre Highway finally kisses the coast, allowing drivers of conventional vehicles to view the breathtaking cliffs of the Great Australian Bight for the first time. Less than twenty metres from the highway in places, a series of lookouts provide views which make the whole journey worthwhile. (for details of the South Australian Section of the Nullarbor, see Outback, South Australia)