On the coast in the south-western tip of the Kimberley, Broome
is a detached, tropical oasis which makes a welcome sight after the
long journeys from either the Pilbera or the Northern Territory. Even
those arriving by air (Broome has it's own international airport)
appreciate the townships breathtaking location, not to mention it's
lively and cosmopolitian atmosphere.
Lying in between green mangrove mud flats and the turquoise waters of
the Indian Ocean, Broome's early fame derived from it's world-beating
pearl industry, attracting fortune seekers from many nations in the
late nineteenth century. Today it's best known as one of the nation's
true getaways, alluring swarms of tourists dreaming of lazing on
unspoilt white beaches in the middle of nowhere. As to be expected of
any beach mecca, the townships fabulous shores are matched by a great
range of resort and backpacker style accommodations, as well as a
healthy variety of multicultural restaurants and outdoor cafes. There's
also a number of interesting shops and attractions, many of which
showcase the town's speciality of pearling.
Many visitors to Broome coincide their trip with the full
moon, in an attempt to witness the Staircase to the Moon. When the
conditions are right, the reflections of the moon on the rippling mud
flats form what appears to be a golden staircase to the sky. This
amazing natural phenomenon is accompanied by a very enjoyable evening
market at Town Beach.
Travelling west from Broome and heading for the heart of the Kimberley,
the Great Northern Highway begins the next step of its immense
journey to the Northern Territory. Just past the Willare Bridge
Roadhouse 179 kilometres down the
road, the Derby Highway branches left and terminates on the coast at
the major settlement of Derby. Worth the 43 kilometre detour,
Derby's centre is gracefully set on a small peninsula, enveloped by
extensive mud flats and the serene tidal waters of King Sound. Thick
vegetation and the lush tropical gardens which line the streets, add to the
township's feel and appeal.
Acting as an administration centre for several Aboriginal communities
and a hinterland rich in pastoral and mineral wealth, Derby also
provides the ideal base from which to explore the spectacular Devonian
Reef National Parks. Devonian Reef National Parks is the collective
name for three separate parks, once part of the western stretches of
the Great Barrier Reef 350 million years ago. The landscapes are now
dominated by a series of dramatic gorges, looming over dense tropical
forests, trickling rivers and rock pools, and an amazing variety of
different wildlife species. You're almost guaranteed to spot some lazy
freshwater crocodiles sunning themselves on the sandy banks of a
waterhole.
During the wet season, the gorge's meandering rivers turn into gushing
torrents, closing all roads into the parks from November to March.
During the dry, the gravel roads are best suited to four wheel drives
and even then, can be rough. The safest option is to rely on some local
experience, and jump on one of the wilderness tours operating out of
Derby. Additional tours operate out of Broome as well as the small
settlement of Fitzroy Crossing.
Fitzroy Crossing is situated below the Devonian Reef National
Parks on the Great Northern Highway, 217 kilometres from the Derby
turn-off. Also within close proximity to the parks, it makes the other
convenient access point from which to base explorations. The towns
facilities reflect this and considering it's size (pop. 1150), boasts
a good range of accommodation and organised tours.