Port Fairy’s wide streets are lined by 19th century cottages,
great Norfolk pines, old stone churches, boarding houses and inns.
Many fine examples of the state's architecture remain intact, and
more than 50 buildings are classified by the National Trust.
Down on the river, still one of the busiest fishing ports in
Victoria, fishermen unload their catch of fish and abalone at the
dockside. Cruising boats and expensive racing yachts add colour to
mirror images in calm water, while anglers try their luck with the
river’s whiting.
As they are all concentrated in the historic section of town,
restaurants and cafes tend to specialise their menus. Seafood — be
it fresh crayfish, local whiting or braised scallops on risotto — is,
of course, a speciality at many restaurants.
Unlucky anglers will find the local fish and chips a great
consolation, and lunching at Lunch café is definitely de rigeur.
The antique and art and craft shops might also provide a memorable,
and valued, reminder of your Port Fairy visit.
Everything in town is within easy walking distance. A walk around
the streets reveals the wealth of Victorian history in the simple
facades of bluestone cottages with colourful flower-filled gardens,
imposing churches, the courthouse down by the river. Worth a closer
look are Captain Mills’ house and Mott’s cottage.
Another easy walk is right off the end of the wharf. Step onto a
charter boat and take a guided fishing trip and whale watching tour
in winter. Or sit back and enjoy a 4 hour cruise to Lady Julia Percy
Island, home to one of the largest seal colonies in southern
Australia. It is estimated that there are approximately 15,000 to
20,000 seals and 4 different breeds on the small island.
You’ll also find arts and crafts housed in some of Port Fairy’s
finest historic buildings. There are more than a dozen galleries
and studios open to the public, where you can often see the artist
at work.
It is not just the well preserved buildings that make Port Fairy
such a beautiful town to walk around. Near the superb Lancet Gothic
Anglican church there is a rust-roofed, unpainted weatherboard
cottage with a few stunted apple trees, old jetty stumps lean towards
the sea from pristine sand on Griffiths Island — derelict but
beautiful remains of the past.
Port Fairy has always been a haven for the weary and hungry traveller.
More than 40 bed and breakfast houses offer warm and comfortable
accommodation.
Several of them also have fine restaurants attached — you won’t want
to leave your guesthouse!
As the birthplace of European settlement, Portland is steeped
in history, with its past playing a big role in its present and
future. Many of its 200 heritage buildings from the 1800's are now
fine places to dine and/or to stay.
Visitors can enjoy the special ambience and when it comes to dining,
the local fishing industry ensures only the freshest seafood is on
the menu.
There is always some activity on Portland’s waterfront: big ships
from around the world coming in to load up, the fishing fleet
unloading its catch in the early morning or heading out in the
dark of night and people enjoying the wide foreshore reserve.
And for those who like dropping in a line, Portland is an angler’s
paradise. From a boat or the beach, the range of fish that can be
hooked is extensive, including King George whiting, flathead,
snapper, tuna and mulloway. Details are available at the Visitor
Information Centre.
While locals may want to keep it quiet, Portland has some of the
best surf this side of Bells Beach. The choice spots are Watertower,
Blacknose, Crumpets, Yellow Rock and Murrells.
And when in Portland during September and October, keep an eye out
for southern right whales. These giants of the deep have been seen
frolicking close to shore in Portland Bay.
Visit the Portland Maritime Discovery and Visitors Centre, which
showcases the maritime history of the region through a sight and
sound-filled exhibition. View the oldest surviving intact vessel in
Australia, the Portland Lifeboat built in 1858, or take a leisurely
walk through the Portland Botanic Gardens, established in 1857.
Mary MacKillop — declared a saint in 1995 for her work with the less
fortunate — arrived in Portland in 1862 to work as a governess.
Today, you can experience the steps of Mary Mackillop by taking
the Mary MacKillop Walk.
Surfing the far west
The many breaks, waves and subleties of wind and weather are best
gleaned from the locals, who do not mind sharing a secret or
two if they are approached the right way.
In some of the better wave areas it can pay to give way to the
regulars, who regard the best positions as theirs by right.
Perusal of, and investment in, surf magazines and some local
guides and newspapers, will help your eternal search for the
perfect wave.
It is an increasingly wild coast in the west, but there are
significant beaches with good access at Port Fairy, Warrnambool and
Portland. At the city of Warrnambool, around Lady Bay, are the beach
breaks of Japs, The Flume and Levy’s Beach. At Port Fairy there
is the gentle surf of East Beach, the big right-hand reef breaks
of the Lighthouse and Green Island, the point break of The Passage
and the reefs of Gabbos and Gooloos.
Portland is the last staging post in the west, but outstanding in the
variety of the points, capes and bays around the town, offering
everything from beginners’ beach breaks to the big right-handers of
Blacknose, famous in a big south westerly with a heavy sea. Here the
rides are so long that you have to walk back to a take off point
rather than paddle out again.
