Kangaroo Island

Lying less than 20 kilometres off-shore from the tip of the Fleurieu Peninsula, the pristine coastline, striking landscapes and abundant wildlife of Kangaroo Island (Australia's third largest) has led it to become South Australia's most exciting ecological drawcard. Having been estranged from the mainland for nearly 10,000 years, the island's isolation has evolved into its greatest asset, and the lack of both development and destructive introduced species like foxes, cats, and rabbits, has allowed much of the environment and its thriving native fauna population to remain virtually unchanged. An amazing thirty percent of the island is now protected by numerous parks and wilderness areas, and visitors can expect to see wallabies, koalas, lizards, sea lions and seals, and as the name would suggest, plenty of kangaroos. Those who travel west to the majestic Flinders Chase National Park may even be lucky enough to spot some of Australia's shyer creatures, such as the spiny echidna and the ever elusive platypus. Kangaroo Island is also a bird watchers paradise, boasting over 200 species which range from colourful lorikeets and parrots, to fairy penguins, pelicans, emus, albatrosses and the rare Cape Barren goose.

The most common way to get to Kangaroo Island is via a ferry. Kangaroo Island Sealink operates two vehicle/passenger ferries departing from Cape Jervis (Fleurieu Peninsula) and arriving at the island's eastern most settlement of Penneshaw all year round. During the summer, the passenger only KI Express affords visitors to Adelaide easy access, operating daily out of Glenelg (see Inner Adelaide). The remaining option is to fly, and several airlines offer daily flights from Adelaide Airport, all landing at the island's main town of Kingscote. Once there, apart from the free shuttle bus which runs between Kingscote and Penneshaw, public transport is almost non-existent, so your own vehicle would be a definite advantage. Alternatively, there's an excellent variety of tours on offer, as well as numerous places to rent cars, mopeds, and bicycles (see Tours & Trips under Things To Do). There's also an excellent range of places to stay, ensuring a pleasant stay for any traveller on any budget.

Most visits to Kangaroo Island begin at the peaceful resort town of Penneshaw, set on the white sandy shores of Hog Bay. The town's main attraction is its colony of fairy penguins, who reliably waddle up the beach to their burrows every evening. Guided tours run by the National Parks & Wildlife Service (NPWS) depart just after sunset from the Penguin Interpretative Centre, situated right beside the main ferry terminal. The township itself offers several good accommodation alternatives, as well as a pub, and a number of places to grab a bite. Penneshaw is also home to the friendly Kangaroo Island Gateway Visitors Centre, which provides visitors with camping permits, park passes, and anything else you might like to know.

About 30 kilometres from Penneshaw following Hog Bay Road, a short and scenic detour skirts by the magnificent waterways of the Pelican Lagoon bird sanctuary, before terminating at the tiny settlement of American River 10 kilometres down the road. The village was named after a group of American sealers who built and launched a 35 tonne schooner here in 1804, and today its sheltered estuary is still a noted spot for boating and fishing. The daily pelican feeding (4:30pm) on the town's wharf, is also a major tourist drawcard.

Back on Hog Bay Road, 30 kilometres beyond the turn-off to American River, Kingscote is Kangaroo Island's largest town and main tourist centre. Surprisingly, Kingscote became first recognised European settlement in South Australia, only to be abandoned in favour of the mainland less than four years later. Documenting the difficult conditions faced by the states first pioneers, the Hope Cottage Museum is one of a number of National Trust classified historical sites, all of which can be found a little north of the present town centre.

Although famed by an intriguing past, Kingscote is best known on the tourist trail for it's fairy penguins and pelicans. The first of the penguins begin to return to their burrows just after dusk each evening, and the NPWS operates two nightly tours, leaving from the Ozone Hotel on Kingscote Terrace at 7:30 and 8:30 pm (add an hour during daylight saving). During the afternoons, flocks of pelicans looking for an easy meal take centre stage at the town's jetty, putting on quite a show as they squabble for the complimentary fish. The jetty is also a great spot to drop in a line, with trevally, garfish, and huge South Australian whiting all regularly taking the bait.

During the hotter months (and there's plenty of those in South Australia) Kingscote's tidal pool is the best spot close to town for a refreshing swim. 18 kilometres north of Kingscote, the brilliant blue waters and white sandy shores of Emu Bay is a better option, though you'll need your own transport to get there.

Less than forty kilometres west of Kingscote following the central Playford Highway, the rural village of Parndana lies in the middle of Kangaroo Island's rich farming area known as the "Plateau Country". The Parndana Wildlife Park is the town's main tourist attraction, located on a large property just a few kilometres from the outskirts of town. The park gives visitors an opportunity for a more intimate experience with many of the island's most loved animals, and these include kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, and koalas as well as a variety of native birds.

Travelling north of Parndana via a unsealed road, the tiny coastal hamlet of Stokes Bay is well worth the bumpy detour, especially on a warm day when it's crystal blue waters look more inviting than ever. The walk to the beach is equally special, with the path passing through a tunnel of boulders before arriving at the radiant white sands and azure ocean on the other side! The bay's sheltered waters are ideal for a cool swim, as is the enormous enclosed rockpool at the western end of the beach.

Approximately fifteen kilometres west of Kingscote, the Birchmore Highway (South Coast Road) branches of the Playford Highway, providing access to the wilder south-western stretches of Kangaroo Island. Thirty kilometres beyond the turn-off, a small gravel road takes a ten kilometre detour towards the coast and the island's most popular attraction of Seal Bay. Seal Bay is home to one of the country's largest colonies of Australian sea lions, which over time have become surprisingly tolerant of the almost constant stream of excited tourists. Supervised tours run by the NPWS allow visitors to get astonishingly close to these beautiful animals, who will be either lazing about on the beach or playing in the surf. Tours are conducted every 45 minutes throughout the day, kicking off as early as 9:00 in the morning.

Heading further west on the South Coast Road, an impressive group of enormous white sand dunes collectively known as the "Little Sahara", dominate the landscape less than ten kilometres from the turn-off to Seal Bay. Also worthy of a stop are the Kelly Hill Caves, a further 30 kilometres or so west of the dunes. The largest cave contains many spectacular limestone formations, most of which can be appreciated via the frequent, 50 minute guided tours which begin just off the main road at the informative Caves Visitors Centre.

Another 17 kilometre west of the Kelly Hill Caves, the scenic South Coast Road comes to a fitting end amidst the splendour of the must see Flinders Chase National Park. Encompassing the entire western end of the island, the park protects 74 000 hectares of soaring eucalypts, mallee forests, low-growing coastal shrubs, and more wildlife than you can poke a stick at. It's also home to some of South Australia's most breathtaking coastline, with the Admirals Arch and the Remarkable Rocks being the most famous examples of the park's dramatic littoral landscape.

The majority of Flinders Chase's highlights and bush walking trails lie within a twenty kilometre radius of the friendly and informative park headquarters, located at the end of South Coast Road at Rocky River . Most of the places to stay are also in the same region, although these are limited to a few campgrounds and a farmstay. The only other accommodation alternative on this side of the island are the homely lighthouse-keepers cottages, set beside the grand old lighthouse at the southern most tip of the park (enquire at the park headquarters for more information). While in the Rocky River area, be prepared to be approached by a barrage of fearless kangaroos and emus looking for an easy feed. For refuge, there is a fenced off picnic ground for those who'd prefer to eat in peace. Enjoy your stay!