The Nullarbor Plain

Crossing the Nullarbor Plain is undoubtedly one of Australia's great touring experiences. From the point where the Eyre Highway begins its stretch across the Nullarbor at Ceduda, it's a 1208 kilometre journey before it reaches another real town of any size (see Norseman in Outback, Western Australia). The only signs of civilisation on the long passages of perfectly straight road are a series of roadhouses, providing fuel, essential services, food, and generally both camping and motel styles of accommodation. The largest gap is about 200 kilometres, so motorcyclists may need to carry extra fuel. Travellers should also be aware of wandering kangaroos, wombats and emus (especially at dawn or dusk), enormous road trains, and the many time changes which occur along the way.

Ten kilometres west from where the Flinders Highway merges with the Eyre Highway, the town of Ceduna is the eastern gateway to the Nullarbor Plain. Geared around the steady stream of tourists travelling to or from Western Australia, the town offers a good range of modest accommodation as well as a number a pubs which dish up hearty meals. There also a supermarket for stocking up supplies, and plenty of service stations for checking your vehicle. If you arrive here during the day, you can seek relaxation on the good fishing and swimming beaches around the sandy coves of Murat Bay.

72 kilometres west of Ceduna, Penong is the first of the tiny settlements offering tourist facilities. Unlike the others, Penong boasts a famous surf beach (Cactus Beach) which backs onto an amazing tract of extensive sand dunes. There's also a couple of outlets displaying local craft and Aboriginal art. From Penong, it's 74 kilometres to the Nundroo Roadhouse, and then another 55 to Yalata. Beyond Yalata, the landscape becomes true to the Nullarbor's name (loosely translated from the Latin for "no trees"), and the featureless plain stretches for as far as the eye can see. This section of the Nullarbor is also a renowned whale watching area between June and October, with southern right whales frequenting the waters around the dramatic cliffs of the Great Australian Bight. Via a ten kilometre detour from the highway, the Head of the Bight lookout provides the best vantage point. The lookout's on Aboriginal land, so you'll need to obtain a permit from the Yalata Roadhouse.

94 kilometres west of Yalata, the Nullarbor Roadhouse is last stop before the 200 kilometre stretch to the Western Australian border. From here the Eyre Highway travels right by the coast and through the Nullarbor National Park. Although the park consists entirely of desert, a series of lookouts (just off the highway) allow breathtaking views over the dark blue waters of the Bight, and the spectacular eighty metre decent of the Bunda Cliffs. Don't make the mistake of driving straight by, as the scenery here makes the Nullarbor journey worthwhile in itself. (for information on the Western Australian side of the Nullarbor, see Outback, W.A.)